- Haute Couture (Haute Couture): the birth of art
- The flowering
- Crisis
The heyday of high fashion in the 20th century
In the 19th century the difference between haute couture and ready-made clothing production was not so great. But by 1910, these two species diverged markedly industry. The syndicate of fashion and clothing was renamed syndicate Paris haute couture, created special rules for members of that regulated a unique design and quality sewing (clothing was sewn to the measure of the customer), as well as the sale of models and their repetition. Designers of high fashion care illegal copying of their works.
In 1921 the famous couturier Madeleine Vionnet sozadala association PAIS, which was to protect the original fashion design haute couture. Dresses photographed from all sides, and these pictures together with a description recorded in PAIS. This was to counter the illegal copying - descriptions and pictures can be used as proof of authorship. In 1943 this function was transferred to the Syndicate.
In 1929, the Syndicate opened a school for fashion designers under the auspices of the Ministry of Education. During the three-year training first taught practical skills of sewing, and then technology design clothes and create original designs. These schools and courses continue to operate today.
In 1930, the Syndicate has established a calendar of fashion shows that are coordinated with each other, were in turn, did not compete with each other and gathered a growing number of journalists and foreign buyers.
In 1939 in Paris, it was seventy salons of haute couture. But, of course, during the Second World War, when Paris was occupied by the Nazis, the fashion industry was hit hard. The German authorities wanted to move the center of the fashion industry in Berlin or Vienna, but the president of the Syndicate of high fashion, designer Lucien Lelong, was able to persuade the occupiers to leave everything as is.
The postwar period
After the liberation of Paris haute couture was to win back customers and manufacturers in North America, to restore the prestige of French fashion and affected the economy. Even before the war the main customers of fashion houses have become commercial buyers and the fashion press, and after the war this trend has only entrenched. This is particularly evident on the shows schedule approved by the Syndicate of high fashion: first models showed the American buyers, then the European and then only to private customers.
Postwar recognition Parisian haute couture as an international center was confirmed in 1947, when an American fashion magazine Harper's Bazaar loudly welcomed the new fashion house Christian Dior, founded in 1945.
New rules
In 1945, a syndicate of Paris haute couture introduced stricter rules of regulation, to set a higher level of quality of high fashion. It is divided into two classes: Couture and more prestigious Couture-Création. Membership fashion houses in the Combine was reviewed annually. To verify membership in the class of Couture-Création, fashion house collection should show a minimum of twenty-five models every spring and autumn, they had to demonstrate mannequins in "befitting" room in Paris. The regulations also describe the technique of execution of the original models, repetition of their clients, the number of fittings and sell clothes.
The fifties were the years of prosperity - there were new fashion salons. The biggest fashion houses have become Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain and Jacques Fath. In the postwar years the economy of fashion houses are increasingly shifting towards commercial buyers. Design designer copied for limited lines, and for the mass market. House of haute couture sold the original model, and tuali and paper patterns in accordance with the rules of the Syndicate.
This situation has stimulated the development of different types of lucrative activity fashion houses. Christian Dior created a licensing agreement with Christian Dior, New York, and Jacques Fath went to the American market of readymade garments, together with Joseph Halpert. Many designer boutiques opened at its stores, where they sold less expensive version of its apparel and accessories (the first did Paul Poiret at the very beginning of the twentieth century).
In 1950 he founded the Association Les Couturiers associés, which included Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Jean-Marc Paquin, Marie-Louise Carven and Jean Dessès, ready-made clothes are sold in French shops. Other similar association aimed at international merchants and the press. Their activities ended when the fashion houses began to publish collections of "ready-to-wear," ready-made garments.
In the fifties, the fashion industry has flourished under the control of the Syndicate. In 1959, its members sell clothes for twenty million francs, three thousand workers were employed in the industry on an ongoing basis.
Paris fashion industry was so successful that in other countries began to emerge like. During the Second World War in London and Barcelona were created Association of designers of high fashion, and in Italy and Canada - after the war. However, nobody has been able to achieve that level of prestige and economic benefit, which was in Paris. After all, the French system has developed historically on the basis of cooperation with the manufacturers of luxury fabrics, jewelry, belts and other accessories, as well as using the work of skilled craftsmen.
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Crisis
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