Hydroxy Acids - essential elements of modern cosmetology

With the increasing number of studies on the causes of wrinkles and the effects of photoaging, hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids) increased significantly in popularity. Hydroxy Acids used by mankind for thousands of years as a rejuvenating agent. There is evidence that Cleopatra took baths podkisshego milk (which contains lactic acid), to improve the color and condition of the skin. Now hydroxy acids have become a common addition to the numerous facilities for the care of the skin, including moisturizers, cleansers, toners and masks.

With high probability, hydroxy acids - the second most popular ingredient medical cosmetics, and in low concentrations, they are part of the traditional cosmetic products, which are produced in the format of "mass market." Hydroxy Acids - are organic carboxylic acids; according to their molecular structure, they are divided into alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA).

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) range from simple aliphatic compounds to complex molecules. Many alpha hydroxyacids obtained from natural sources, therefore often called fruit acids. Alpha-hydroxy acids are the following acids: glycolic, lactic, citric, mandelic, malic, and tartaric. The newly discovered ANA, lactobionic acid, may have advantages in comparison with other acids.

It found that alpha-hydroxy acids reduce signs of aging Internal and external aging: it is necessary to think in advance . After their application, the skin appears smoother, the surface is leveled and the texture becomes more uniform. The probable reason for these changes is the property of the ANA to stimulate the cleansing of the epidermis of dead cells. It is believed that alpha-hydroxy acids promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, improve the quality of elastic fibers and increase the density of collagen. Scientific evidence supporting this view are contradictory and do not allow to come to a common conclusion.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) are aromatic compounds. Salicylic acid is the main beta-hydroxy acid; It has dermoliticheskimi properties and helps with various xerotic and ichthyotic disorders. Beta-hydroxy acids also include 2-hydroxy-5-oktanoyl benzoic acid, also known as beta-lipogidroksikislota (B-LHA), and tropical acid.

Despite their popularity, the precise mechanism of action remains unknown oxyacids and largely controversial, however, at least one of the aspects of their biological activity may be associated with the acidic compounds of the fortress. Studies show that AHAs may increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation, so if you use medical cosmetics containing them, it is advisable to use a sunscreen.

Hydroxy acids or alpha-hydroxy acids are prepared from fruit and milk sugars. The most commonly used hydroxy acids - glycolic acid and lactic acid because they have the ability to penetrate deeply into the skin. Furthermore, these oxyacids are most specialists investigated for effectiveness and side effects. Here are five basic types of alpha hydroxy acids, which are found in products for skin care, as well as their sources.

• glycolic acid - it is produced sugar cane
• lactic acid - from milk
• Malic Acid - apples and pears
• citric acid - oranges and lemons
• tartaric acid - from grapes

Antioxidants

Our skin is constantly exposed to the harmful effects of endogenous and exogenous factors. Such impacts as ultraviolet radiation, drugs, air pollutants, as well as high and low temperature, continuously activates the protective mechanisms of the skin. In addition to these external influences, the skin also forced to defend itself from endogenous mitogens, most important of which are reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals. Reactive oxygen species are formed constantly in the physiological cellular metabolism. To neutralize the harmful effects of ROS helps skin antioxidant system, maintaining the balance between pro-oxidants, or damaging agents, and antioxidants, or protecting agents; antioxidants interfere with the protective processes at different levels.

How do hydroxy acids

Alpha-hydroxy acids are operated mainly as exfoliants. They affect the cells of the epidermis, allowing dead skin cells without hindrance removed to make room for new ones. Alpha hydroxy acids can stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, they smooth wrinkles, roughness, improving skin texture, pigmentation and eliminating photodamage after months of daily use. Alpha-hydroxy acids, which are found in cosmetics, work best at a concentration of from 5% to 8%, with the level of acidity of pH 3 to 4.

Side effects of alpha-hydroxy acids

There are two main side effects of alpha hydroxy acids - this irritation and increased photosensitivity (sensitivity to the sun). Symptoms include redness, irritation, burning, itching, pain and possibly even scarring. People with dark skin have a higher risk of scarring and pigmentary changes with the use of alpha hydroxy acids.

The use of these acids can increase sensitivity to the sun by 50%, which in itself is an interesting fact. On the one hand, alpha-hydroxy acids are used to remove skin damage caused by negative influence of ultraviolet radiation, but at the same time they make the skin more susceptible to them. Anyone using alpha hydroxy acids is to use a good sunscreen Sunscreen: summer trends Containing protection against both UVA and UVB rays.

Alpha-hydroxy acids and chemical peels

Alpha-hydroxy acids in different concentrations are used for peeling .  The concentration is the determining factor .  Products with oksikislotamii which are commercially available, should have a concentration lower than 10% .  Skilled cosmeticians are use products which have concentration of hydroxyacids from 20% to 30% .  These chemical peels produce results comparable to the effect of microdermabrasion - they smooth wrinkles, giving the skin a smoother appearance after 1-3 applications .  However, these treatments have to be repeated every 3 to 6 months to maintain the appearance of the skin .  Doctors can use products that have a concentration of hydroxy acids from 50% to 70% .  These procedures help to eliminate fine lines and remove superficial scars, but their effect lasts longer - up to 2-5 years .  The higher concentration of alpha-hydroxy acids used in the chemical peeling, the more irritated skin .  At 50% and 70% concentrations of strong reddening and peeling can last up to 4 weeks .

The difference between alpha and beta

There is only one beta-hydroxy acid - salicylic. The main difference between the alpha and beta hydroxy acids is their solubility in oils. Alpha-hydroxy acids are soluble only in water, whereas beta-hydroxy acid is fat-soluble. This means that the beta hydroxy acid can penetrate into the pores of which contain sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells, which are created within the pores. Because of this difference in the properties of beta-hydroxy acid may be used on oily skin and acne comedones Comedones . Alpha-hydroxy acids is better to use in the dense sun damaged skin, where there is no problem opening acne.

Selection of alpha-hydroxy acids

Alpha hydroxy acids are contained in various products for skin care products, including moisturizers and cleansers, eye cream, sunscreen, tonal foundations for the face.

It is best to choose a product that contains in its formula, alpha-hydroxy acids for use as an exfoliant, and then acquire other skin care products which do not contain hydroxy acids, to reduce the likelihood of skin irritation.

The use of alpha hydroxy acids in the daily moisturizer is the best combination.

Cleansers that contain alpha hydroxy acids can not be considered to be very effective, because to get the result that acids need to be absorbed by the skin. Cleansing the skin means quickly washed away.

Currently there is no effective products that combine alpha-hydroxy acids and sun protection because sunscreens are not stable in relation to the desired pH, which provides efficiency oxyacids. Therefore cream sun protection must separate from the overlap with hydroxy acids, it should have a SPF of at least 15 to protect against UVB-rays and contain avobenzoin, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide to protect against UVA-rays.

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