"Belle Epoque" or "Belle Epoque", also called "Art Nouveau" or "modern era" spanned two decades at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Like any joint of two centuries, this period is characterized by important changes, overdue in society, as reflected in its various guises. Fashion Art Nouveau extremely interesting for its transformations, which were an omen of drastic changes that have taken place a little later.
The modern era began in the nineties of the nineteenth century and lasted until the First World War. This time is characterized by major changes in a woman's suit, which gradually moved away from the old lady's form of clothes, tight, suffocating, lush.
S-silhouette, the new skirt and sleeves
Modern clearly manifested in the female form in the form of S-shaped silhouette. He was typical of the convex line of the chest, a narrow waist and pronounced volume in the back of the dress. The fluffy skirt silhouette, which today is reflected in the so-called "princess" in the nineties of the nineteenth century began to retreat into the past. They have narrowed considerably, but designers graciously left behind volume, it successfully simulated-bustle overlays.
Changing the design of sleeves - this is another trait that characterizes the evolution of the image of a ladies' Art Nouveau. In the early nineteenth century, the French vogue giperobemnye sleeves puff that appeared not only in women but also in men's suit
Men's Suits: tradition and modernity
. A new round of spread they had at the turn of centuries, along with the new name. Since the modern era was the heyday of the sleeves Gigot (fr. Gigot - «haunch"), which actually resembles a silhouette that area - very lush, prisborennye in the shoulder, they gradually narrowed to the wrist. By the end of Belle Epoque sleeve at the top of the old lost form and became close to modern "lanterns", more convenient and suitable to the spirit of the time.
Influence of sports
In 1896, thanks to Pierre le Coubertin revived the Olympic Games have increased the importance of sport, which could not find its reflection in fashion. For the fair sex were spacious trousers narrowed down where it was easy to ride a bike. For women golfers have come up with special corsets that were more comfortable than the traditional ones. By leaps and bounds began to develop beach fashion, which included, for example, knee pants, dresses with short sleeves, wide lapels and sharp triangular sine pattern strip.
Major couturiers era
Intricate shapes, airy silhouettes and pastel colors
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Which gradually gave way to more restrained style in the late nineteenth century continued to create great French fashion designer Jacques Doucet. Luxury Toilet his authorship were the famous actress of the time, who gladly wore in satin, silk
Silk - a legacy of the Yellow Emperor
and lace. Jacques Doucet became followers of Madeleine Vionnet and the greatest reformer of Paul Poiret, which subsequently competed Coco Chanel.
Madeleine Vionnet has introduced a way to cut on the bias, thanks to which we were born simple and elegant silhouettes of dresses with beautiful flowing shapes, flowing sleeves, made of a single piece of fabric. Madeleine Vionnet works can be considered the forerunners of wraparound dress, which appeared only in the seventies.
Paul Poiret freed women from corsets: in 1905, thanks to him, appeared Shirt cut dresses, as he returned to the fashion of antique silhouettes by teaching European women wear tunics and kimono.
The whole period of Art Nouveau embraced creativity Frenchwoman Jeanne Paken. Her fashion house was opened in 1891 and soon gained popularity among the aristocratic ordering her evening dresses. She worked in a fairly conservative style, offering outfits of S-shaped silhouette, but became the first woman in the fashion world, has achieved international recognition and even awarded the Order of the Legion of Honor.
You can not argue that the designers of this time a revolution, forcing women to remove the shackles of tight corsets and crinolines to abandon in favor of light elegant outfits. The image of women Art Nouveau became the interim, when there was a gradual and painless refusal to elaborate, sometimes romantic, but not always comfortable with the introduction of the volume of pure lines, flowing fabrics with a general tendency to minimalism.
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