Retinoids

Retinoids - the most common type of medical cosmetics on the market today. Retinoids - a vitamin A derivatives, are present in all living organisms, in the form of preformed vitamin A or carotenoids. Vitamin A (retinol) is the prototype of all other retinoids and is necessary for proper bone formation and growth, as well as the integrity of mucosal and epithelial integument.

At deficiency of vitamin Vitamins for everyone   A first staradyut eyes and skin. In this case, often develop metaplasia and keratinization of the conjunctiva occurs (the mucous membranes of the eye) and the cornea, leading to night blindness and skin affected follicular hyperkeratosis or avitaminous keratosis pilaris. Papules in follicular hyperkeratosis usually grouped around bony prominences such as the elbows and knees, but strong avitaminosis papules may occur on the entire surface of the skin.

Early civilizations recognized the effectiveness of vitamin A in the treatment and healing of night blindness, so in their diet had a lot of dishes from the liver. In 1930 it has been recognized clinical manifestations of vitamin A deficiency, and the idea of ​​using vitamin A in the treatment of skin diseases. The advent of synthetic analogs of vitamin A in the 1970s revived interest in their biological activity, especially in contact with skin. Since vitamin A and its derivatives are successfully used in the treatment of many skin diseases, including ichthyosis, acne and psoriasis. Many studies focus on its use as an anti-aging agent, as well as use in the treatment of other skin diseases, so today vitamin A found a broad spectrum of action.

Vitamin A and its derivatives serve two functions: they act as antioxidants and activate specific genes and proteins. As antioxidants, they protect cells from okisliteleniya. It uses three mechanisms:

• removing peroxyl radicals,
• quenching singlet oxygen molecules,
• the use of sensitizers in the triplet state.

Vitamin A also has a hormone-like effect on the skin, activating specific genes through nuclear receptors. Receptors form a compound with targets in DNA, which are called hormone response elements and activate transcription of a gene. Receptors for retinoic acid binds all-trans-retinoic acid X receptors and retinoic acid binds 9-cis-retinoic acid. Vitamin A and its derivatives inhibit lipid peroxidation; increase the level of alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) and activate growth factors, oncogenes, keratins and transglutaminase.

From the histological point of view, vitamin A and its derivatives induce epidermal thickening, increased mitotic differentiated keratinocytes, and also reduce the amount of sebocytes. The dermis shows an increased amount of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and anchoring fibrils. Structural changes underlying the cosmetic improvements, - a correction of atrophy of the epidermis, the formation of new collagen formation of new blood vessels and increase in mitogenesis.

Increased mitogenesis promotes the separation of the filled granules of melanin Which foods contain melanin - skin care   keratinocytes, which leads to discoloration and subsequent skin depigmentation. The ability of topical tretinoin to improve the condition of skin aging and fotorazdrazhennoy by reducing wrinkles, improving skin tone and elasticity, whitening areas of hyperpigmentation and smoothing the skin surface has been well studied and documented. Other beneficial properties of retinoids are not installed.

Clinical and histological evidence suggests that structural changes caused by excessive exposure to the sun, can be partially reversed by a topical retinoid Retinoids against skin aging: means of wrinkles In particular, retinaldehyde. Topical retinoids are used to treat skin and fotorazdrazhennoy showed clinical and histological efficacy.

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